When the first Submariner debuted in 1953, no one could have predicted that it would become one of the most iconic luxury watches of all time. Designed to be a true tool watch for divers, the water-resistant Rolex Submariner offered watch lovers both form and function. In the 1960s and 70s, the Submariner became ubiquitous in pop culture after appearing on the wrists of countless leading men, including James Bond. Today, the Submariner is one of Rolex’s most beloved watches, right alongside legendary timepieces like the Daytona, the Sea-Dweller, the GMT-Master II, and the Datejust.
Many would argue that the Rolex Submariner has had such incredible lasting power because it has remained largely unchanged since its debut. While the dive watch has gone through many small updates, its appearance has barely changed since the model launched. And until 2020, the latest Submariner hadn’t been tweaked for eight years. So, when Rolex announced a new mainline Submariner model would debut in 2020, it goes without saying that the timepiece was highly anticipated.
Fans of the Rolex Submariner’s classic style and exceptional performance won’t be disappointed by the latest Submariner model. The new 2020 Oyster Perpetual Rolex Submariner 41mm Reference 124060 stays faithful to the iconic model’s roots while boasting some subtle design updates and a significant technology upgrade.
Ready to learn more about the latest main entry in the Submariner lineup? Below, we’re going over the new Submariner’s specs, including its new size, its new bracelet, and its new calibre. Here’s everything you need to know about the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Reference 124060.
The New Submariner Case
The new Submariner looks very similar to the outgoing Submariner Reference 114060, but there are a variety of subtle differences between the models. Most notably, the new Reference 124060 has a larger 41mm stainless steel case. This is a record size for the Submariner, which had previously stayed in the 39mm to 40mm range since its creation.
The Submariner 41mm also features changes in proportions. The sport watch now features more tapered lugs, which is a departure from the previous model’s more robust lugs. Additionally, the new Submariner’s lugs are now longer, having gone from 20mm to 21mm. The crown guards on the latest Submariner case have also been redesigned to be more angled, which helps maintain design consistency.
Apart from these changes, the Submariner 41mm’s case is largely the same. The new Submariner’s case is still made from Oystersteel and it still features a solid steel caseback, a flat scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and an impressive depth rating. Like the previous Submariner, the Submariner 41mm has a water resistance of 300 meters or 1,000 feet.
The New Submariner Dial and Bezel
There are two aspects of the new Rolex Submariner’s design that are essentially unchanged: the timepiece’s dial and bezel. The Reference 124060 still features a unidirectional bezel with a standard black ceramic bezel insert. The watch’s dial still features a deep gloss black dial, maxi markers in white, a Mercedes hour hand, and a Chromalight display designed to enhance legibility. One tiny difference between the new Reference 124060 and the outgoing Reference 114060 can be seen at the 6 o’clock mark. There’s now a crown accent in the “Swiss Made” lettering that sits below 6 o’clock.
The New Submariner Oyster Bracelet
Like past Submariner models, the new Submariner features an Oyster bracelet crafted from the Swiss watchmaker’s signature Oystersteel. However, the new Submariner’s bracelet is slightly broader than the bracelet on older Submariner models. The entire profile of the bracelet is 1mm wider. Alongside the Submariner’s new larger lugs, this wider bracelet ensures that the Submariner 41mm retains the classic Submariner look.
The clasp mechanism on the Submariner 41mm remains unchanged from the previous Submariner design. The latest Submariner still features an Oysterclasp with a security flip-lock and the always-handy Rolex Glidelock extension system.
The Brand New Calibre 3230
There have been small tweaks to the Rolex Submariner’s outward appearance, but the bulk of the new Submariner’s updates are inside the watch. The Submariner Ref 124060 features a brand new patented automatic movement: the calibre 3230, a Superlative Chronometer that has been chronometer-certified by the COSC.
In keeping with other entries in Rolex’s new generation calibres, the calibre 3230 features an impressive roster of updates. The calibre 3230 features a new escapement, the Chronergy escapement. The Chronergy escapement is 15% more efficient than the Swiss lever escapement and is insensitive to magnetic fields. In addition to featuring a new escapement, the calibre 3230 also boasts a more efficient gear train, a high-capacity barrel, a new type of self-winding module, and a longer 70-hour power reserve. The calibre 3230 retains Rolex’s highly shock-resistant blue Parachrom hairspring.
How the New Rolex Submariner Wears
The Rolex Submariner is known for being incredibly easy to wear. So, how does the new Reference 124060 wristwatch stack up against other Submariner models in terms of comfort?
Long-time fans of the Submariner will be happy to hear that the latest model wears very similar to older models. Some report finding the new Sub 41mm even more comfortable than the outgoing Reference number 114060 (2012 to 2020). Though the latest Rolex Submariner watch has a larger case size, it also has slightly larger lugs, which creates a balanced feeling on the wrist.
2020 Rolex Submariner Price
The 2020 Rolex Submariner Reference 124060 is priced at $8,100.
2020 Rolex Submariner Configurations
The new Rolex Submariner No-Date comes in just one configuration. Reference 124060 features an Oystersteel case, an Oystersteel bracelet, a black Cerachrom bezel, and a black dial with blue luminescence.
If you’re interested in a new Submariner with more colorways and material options, consider the 2020 Submariner Date models. The 2020 Rolex Submariner Date comes in the classic black and Oystersteel design ($9,150) and a variety of alternative configurations, including:
- Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in two-tone Oystersteel and yellow gold with a blue Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic and a royal blue dial, $14,300.
- Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in 18 ct yellow gold with a Cerachrom bezel insert in black ceramic and a black dial, $36,950.
- Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in Oystersteel with a Cerachrom bezel insert in green ceramic and a black dial, $9,550.
- Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in 18 ct yellow gold with a Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic and a royal blue dial, $36,950.
- Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in two-tone Oystersteel and yellow gold with a Cerachrom bezel insert in black ceramic and a black dial, $14,300.
- Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date in 18 ct white gold with a Cerachrom bezel insert in blue ceramic and a black dial, $39,650.
All of the 2020 Submariner Date configurations feature a 41mm case, large luminescent hour markers, and Rolex’s magnifying Cyclops lens.
Fans of the Submariner’s Kermit configuration will be happy to see that the Kermit colorway (green bezel and black dial) is available for the new Submariner Date. However, the Submariner’s other famous green model, the Hulk (green bezel and green dial), is not available in the latest Submariner Date iteration.
2020 Rolex Submariner Release Date
The 2020 Rolex Submariner was released on Wednesday, September 2, 2020. It is available for purchase now at authorized Rolex watch retailers. This is a main production model; it is not a limited edition.